The original Flash 1 joystick PCB was manufactured and released by Sanwa for arcade machines many years ago as a ambitous alternative to the microswitch. The idea was to significantly reduce the wear and tear arcade owners often faced in servicing joysticks, replacing the physical microswitches with an optical sensor. Realizing soon after that this meant Sanwa's most replacable part could would generate much less revenue as a result, the company shelved it.
GamerFinger, designer of the popular HBFS mechanical switch pushbutton series, returns with their own innovatively designed optical PCB for the Sanwa JLF-TP-8TY joystick.
Truly Silent, Compatible, and Precise
An incredible joystick PCB like this has several benefits over the original TP-MA:
The GamerFinger Optical PCB uses an optical sensor.There are no physical moving parts, no wear and tear, and no need for replacement.
Estimated life of the PCB is 10 years of daily use.
Incredibly precise digital control for the fastest inputs.
The PCB easily fits into the same space as your existing 5 pin TP-MA PCB.
Its 5-volt conversion is compatible with Playstation 2™, Playstation 3™, Microsoft Xbox360™ and Sega Dreamcast.
The GamerFinger PCB kit includes the following items:
GamerFinger Optical PCB
Copper ring. Installed below your Sanwa JLF E-Clip and provides additional tension.
Foam pad washer. Installed into the Sanwa JLF P-2 Main Body and provides stabiilzation between PCB and body during play.
6-pin harness that includes directional inputs, ground (black) plus 5-voltage (red) wiring
5-pin plug. Optional use; should you desire to connect the optical PCB to your existing Sanwa JLF H-5 5 pin harness, you can create a simple adapter plug that welds the optics kit wire with a 5-pin plug. The voltage wire then connects to the control PCB. Voltage from the control PCB must be at least 3.3 volts. The maximum is 15 volts.
The GamerFinger Optical PCB installs easily into the Sanwa JLF joystick body. To replace the original TP-MA PCB with the GamerFinger Optical PCB:
Remove the plastic square gate by pinching the tabs at each side of the gate inward. It's usually easiest to pinch two from one side, then pull that side up.
Remove the small metal "e-clip" located at the bottom of your joystick shaft.
Following that, remove the actuator (located just above the e-clip) and spring. The TP-MA PCB is a small circuit board with the joystick microswitches attached.
Remove the TPMA switch from the joystick body, then place the GamerFinger Optical PCB into it with the black cover facing out.
Attach the 6-pin harness included with the kit to the 6 pin connector on the GamerFinger Optical PCB. You can then either solder the signal and ground wire (black) to your joystick PCB's up, down, left and right ports, or connect the wires to the corresponding ports on a solderless PCB such as Toodles Cthulhu Multi-Console PCB or Akishop PS360+ Multi-Console Joystick PCB.
Solder the 5v harness wire (red) to the +5v USB port of the main joystick PCB. The joystick PCB's USB port is usually a red wire or specifically labeled on the PCB. If using the MC Cthulhu or Akishop PCB, connect it to the unit's VCC port.
Use and advantage of switchless play
If you're used to playing with a microswitch-based joystick such as the original Sanwa JLF, converting to a switchless environment requires a bit of adjustment. The most significant difference between the GamerFinger Optical PCB and micro switches is that you no longer hear the click of the microswitch. You'll only hear the faint knock of the joystick gate. There are benefits during tournament play; in addition to increased directional control, your competitor can no longer hear your movements. Once you get used to the unique feel of the GamerFinger Optical PCB, your gameplay could improve significantly.
If your partner is complaining about the clicky clicky on your JLF while they're trying to snooze, this PCB is the way to go. The only noise you get from this is the actuator rubbing up against the gate.
I installed this in a Brook UFB and it was easy. Pop the PCB in your stick, then wire everything to its respective terminal. The thing is very responsive. In theory the thing is supposed to last 10 years with daily use. $30 plus shipping sure beats the hell out of paying $13 plus shipping for a stock JLF PCB every few years. It's a great value.
Add a 2LB and you got yourself a very nice stick. Although it will take some getting used to. But not a whole lot.Chipface
Apr 17th 2016
Cheap, silent and effortless
Installed this on a Brook PS3/PS4 board in about 5 minutes. I had a stiffer spring in there and reverted back to the standard JLF. The copper ring helps a bit but it is a tad soft indeed so I would advise getting the 2lb spring. I love being able to do footsies effortlessly without the annoying click and the long throw of switches. The sensitivity is also much greater than with the standard Omron switches. You can get the SparkCE if you need adjustability but I find this one good as it is. Not sure what the other poster is going on about but this DOESN'T miss inputs: you do. You'll need to adapt to this one but after an hour of play I'm pretty much 90% of where I was. Serious bang for the buck on this one if you're looking for a smooth and silent replacement for your JLF, this is it. Victor
Apr 7th 2016
I am loving how smooth and responsive this product is. Definitely better for the long run =)!Unknown
Oct 5th 2015
I attached this to my Quanba and have no problems with it. It is very sensitive and takes some time getting used to. Other then the fact that you have to solder it on if you dont have a ps360+ or a cthulu, it was easy to install.
How well this product works has made me interested in trying Gamefinger buttons.cs
Aug 25th 2015
heres a bit of a preface to my review:
* im a street fighter player (cvs2, st, 3s, sf4, marvel2)
* im not a top 8 player, but i have gotten out of pools are evo and played evo champions and top 8 for days in japan, even beating them on occasion and getting some games (not matches) against them at evo. i also performed decently at evo and regionals in some secondary games. so, im a former, very serious competitor.
* i used to build my own joysticks because at the time it was hrap or make your own. ive built with happ, sanwa, and seimitsu, and ive played all across japan on machines that had sanwas or seimitsus.
anyway, this joystick misses inputs. i things i hear people say the most end up not really affecting their play (lack of noise, different sensitivity). however, what does affect their play is doing things like two quarter circles (like supers in street fighter). it becomes pretty apparent if you turn on key display in a game and compare two sticks side by side. it looks like the optical frequently misses down and right/left when compared with a switch-based stick. this definitely affects my execution and the people i play against.
i really wanted this to be tournament worthy, but its not. the things like sound and feeling dont seem to really make any more than a superficial difference, but the missed inputs do.avt
Aug 13th 2015
Overview of finished installation of gamerfinger pcb. Performa...
HBFS 30 vs Silent Sanwa - Optical Joystick vs Regular Sanwa Joystick
Hey guys, a quick comparison of the HBSF 30 buttons vs the Sil...
Gamerfinger optical pcb jlf on Razer Atrox.
Overview of finished installation of gamerfinger pcb. Performance video review under way. Thanks for watching.
link to atrox pcb: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/145828/the-razer-arcade-stick-thread/p26
link to gamerfinger schematics: http://www.focusattack.com/gamerfinger-optical-joystick-pcb-for-sanwa-jlf-joystick/